The story of the Break Bone fever
Here’s the story of the Break Bone fever. It begins with a
little mozzie called ‘Little Bugger’.
Little Bugger used to live in the heart of the Kardamom jungle
in Cambodia. From this sentence you can already assume that either Little Bugger
is dead or the jungle is no longer there. In this case, both are - almost - correct.
The Kardamom is a truly amazing jungle. It stretches from
the mountains in North Cambodia to the Gulf of Thailand in the South. It has
gigantic trees, exotic birds and it’s the last jungle in SE Asia where tigers
and wild elephants still roam free. This jungle was also where Little Bugger
used to fly happily around and suck tasty blood from passing mammals – or from the
odd jungle trekkers, in our case.
But Little Bugger is now dead. I killed it. I smashed it
against my leg, splashing streams of blood and inner mosquito bits on my hands.
I’m certain it neither
thanked me after finishing sipping my western-flavoured blood nor a moment
before it spread its wings to fly away. Too bad. If it had stuck around for a
bit longer it might have still been alive. But it didn’t.
Unfortunately it was also too late for me. And for Jen. We
both got bitten by Little Bugger.
The Dengue virus that was
injected into my blood didn’t spread immediately. There’s no rush apparently
when it comes to Dengue. After 10 days the incubation period ended and the first
sign finally appeared: high temperature.
Then it all came at once.
Symptoms: horrible muscle pain, bones, joints and brain ache, weakness, extreme
temperatures and then the horrifying realisation of ‘so this is why Dengue is
called Break-Bone fever’.
It definitely feels like
it: body is immobilised, sight’s disabled. Appetite vanished, brain’s screaming
in agony. The only piece of though that’s still hanging around like undesirable
requiem is ‘why am I not dead yet, Moses, why am I not dead...?’
I was laying in bed for
10 days, recovering from Little Buggers’ gift. 10 days is enough time to think
about our jungle experience and decide if it was worth it.
Was it?
If jungles were cars
Kardamom is definitely a Land Rover; Mighty, powerful and full of surprises. To
penetrate it we needed to get a local guide, a bag of determination and a good
pair of boots. The team: Lady D, Jen, Anna, another British backpacker we met
on our way, and I.
Our first stop was a
little remote village of hunters and loggers called Chi-Pat.
The only access to the
village is through a long muddy track, endless plantation areas and a number of
river crossings. The village itself looks like it was taken out from the classic
fairytales: one main dirt road with wooden hats alongside, small herb gardens,
a few paddy fields in the back and a tiny market. Smell of fresh food mixed
with livestock and dried fish. Locals wave to us, kids chased us to greet
hello, dogs barked to us, chickens run away from us and only the pigs ignore us
and kept playing in the mud. I loved Chi-Pat from the first moment.
We spent the night in the
village, linked up with our guide and set ourselves to our jungle exploration:
packed our bags with food, hammocks and enough mosquitos repellent to crack
another hole in the ozone layer.
And into the jungle we
went.
We rowed a little boat upstream.
It was early morning and the jungle was awakening. Bugs were zooming, birds tweeting,
huge Hornbills flying above and orang-utans jumping from tree to tree. Magic.
After a couple of hours
we arrived to a little clearance and it was time to disembark and leave our
boats behind. We started to walk.
And immediately –
leeches. Millions of them. And they are all crazily obsessed: “Blood! Blood! We
want your blood!!”
Sensing our footfalls
they’re crawling fast on the jungle floor, climbing on our boots and finding
their ways through leather and socks. Then pinching the skin to get to their
favourite juice and suck it until they’re about to explode. Hey you – leave
some for Little Bugger, he needs a drink too!
In the beginning we fought
back. Armed with sticks, knives and a flame-thrower we stood firm and bravely
manned the defences. We beat them, sliced them and burned them. But there were
too many of them and soon we had to give up to those parasites and accept our own
bloodshed – Jen won the beer for been dined on the most with 9 leech marks.
During the day we came
across several monkeys, big cats’ paw prints, elephant’s beds and a huge pile
of what they left after digesting their massive breakfast.
In the evening we set up camp. We washed in the stream, cooked
our meals and got into the hammocks, slung high above the jungle’s floor. It
was then, while changing our sweaty clothes, that Little Bugger spotted the
opportunity of its lifetime to taste some of that exotic Westerner blood.
He came, he tasted, he died.
No hard feelings, Little Bugger. You did what you needed to
do and I did what I needed. You suck blood, I killed you.
Night time. Light breeze puffed fresh air through the dense
jungle, bringing smells of green and moist. The jungle was switching shifts.
Night shift is on. A beautiful harmony of creatures singing lullaby, late bird
calling its partner and fireflies were flying around my head, getting attracted
to my torch. So relaxed. So remote. What a beautiful night. And the Dengue virus
has just started to feel comfortable in its new host.
The bad guys of this story are, again, the Chinese. A new
development is currently underway to transform this jungle into a lively
complex of resorts. In the next few years these trees will be bulldozered to
clear way for 7 new holiday cities. Yes – 7 cities.
On the agenda: beachside towns with exclusive shopping
malls, restaurants with the best selection stretching all along the coastline.
Airports, coaches, high speed trains connecting the boulevards to the fluorescent
lighten hotels and the pearl in the crown: a gigantic massive casino, the
biggest even built in SE Asia – how exciting.
This is just another of the disasters the Chinese impose on
our nature as part of their blindness race to ‘develop’ the world. For Little Bugger
it won’t matter anymore but for the elephants, Serval, monkeys, hornbills and other
endangered creatures of the Cardamom jungle is will simply be the end.
So was Kardamom worth the visit?
Definitely.
Was it worth the Break Bone fever?
Probably yes. Sadly, the last pristine jungle for a few
weeks of sickness – it’s a deal I can handle.
Jen & Noam
Photos, stories and more on our website www.landroveroverland.co.uk
Note: In
general we object to the killing of defenceless creatures. Mozzies, however, can
fly, bite and kill therefore are not defenceless.
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